Braiden Rex-Johnson: Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette

Salmon and the Northwest are inextricable; through the ages, one has fueled the other historically, economically, and spiritually. The yearly run of the Pacific salmon begins in May with the Chinook, or king salmon, and continues through the early fall with the return of the sockeye or red salmon, Coho or silver, pink or humpback, and chum or keta, respectively.

Salmon runs can be further divided by the rivers in which the fish return to spawn, such as the Columbia River, Copper River, or Yukon River. Come the middle of May, Northwesterners await the return of the Copper River salmon–nicknamed the “filet mignon” of salmon–like the French look forward to the release of the Nouveau Beaujolais.

We mark the projected date of the first Copper River salmon opening on our calendars, keep our fingers crossed it actually arrives then, and get daily updates from our faithful fishmongers. Word spreads as the first Alaska Airlines cargo plane loaded with the iconic fish lands at Sea-Tac Airport. Like a returning war hero, the Copper River salmon receives a red-carpet welcome, along with a flurry of news reports in the local press.

Wild salmon, and particularly premium salmon such as that from the Copper River, is a rich, meaty fish with multiple dimensions of flavor. These flavors, often described as “nutty,” “woodsy,” and “game-like,” pair particularly well with Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir, characterized by delicacy and subtlety in both flavor and texture, ranges from light and fruity when young, to full-flavored and complex as it ages.

Pair the following recipe from my book Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007) with another Northwest icon–Oregon Pinot Noir–and notice how the lush berry, earthy, and smoky flavors in the dish mirror the same aromas and flavors in the wine. Some of my favorite Oregon Pinot Noir producers include reasonably priced versions such as Willamette Valley Vineyard’s Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir (which winery founder Jim Bernau characterizes as “Pinot Noir candy”) or luxury-priced Pinots from Domaine Serene and Archery Summit.

Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Serves 4

In addition to showcasing fresh, wild salmon and Oregon Pinot Noir, this recipe (which comes from Kevin Davis, chef and co-owner of the ever-popular Steelhead Diner in Seattle’s famous Pike Place Market) also calls for another iconic Northwest ingredient–cherries. I like to use dried cherries from the Chukar Cherry Company, which has been making extraordinary dried cherry, berry, and nut products for more than 20 years in eastern Washington’s Yakima Valley.

Ingredients:
Macerated Cherries:
1 cup dried cherries (Chukar Cherry Company brand preferred)
1 cup port or Madeira

Four 8-ounce wild salmon fillets (center cuts preferred)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
Freshly grated zest of 1 orange
1 cup smoked almonds, lightly crushed (Blue Diamond brand preferred)

Directions:
1. To prepare the Macerated Cherries, place the dried cherries in a heatproof nonreactive bowl.  Bring the port to a boil and pour over the cherries. Cover with plastic wrap and steep for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately.

2. Prepare a medium-low fire in a gas or charcoal grill. Brush the salmon with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Place the fillets on the grill skin side down away from direct heat. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turn the fish, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more (for medium rare) or to the desired doneness.

3. While the fish is grilling, melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Cook until the butter turns brown and gives off a nutty aroma. This is called beurre noisette in French, and translates as “brown butter.”

4. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the chopped rosemary, orange zest, almonds, and Macerated Cherries (drained and patted dry) in that order, pausing between each addition and stirring gently to allow each ingredient to render it essence into the butter. Be careful when adding the first two ingredients, as the butter may sizzle and pop. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Place the salmon fillets on 4 dinner plates, top with the brown butter, and serve immediately.

Cook’s Hint: Wild king or Chinook salmon has a very high fat content and will tend to flame up if cooked too fast. It’s always a good idea to have a water bottle handy, just in case. Don’t leave the grill unattended at any time throughout the cooking process. Also, Chef Kevin has an easy way to prevent overcooking your fish. Simply turn the grill off when the fish is slightly underdone; this allows the carryover heat to finish cooking the fish.

Recipe reprinted from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (Wiley) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

–Braiden Rex-Johnson

Photo of Braiden by Ingrid Pape-Sheldon