Charcoal of Choice? Lump Beats Briquettes

I’m not exactly sure when I became a convert to lump charcoal, the less processed grilling fuel that’s really hot right now. (I’m basing that on seeing more of it on shelves; even briquette giant Kingsford is on board the lump charcoal bandwagon.)

I think it was while covering the epic Memphis in May World Championship Cooking Contest, which is billed as the Super Bowl of Swine. At that barbecue competition, more than 200 teams from across the country and around the globe cook pork low and slow using all sorts of secret and not-so-secret techniques. While walking among the vast, elaborately decorated booths, I spotted a whole lot of lump charcoal being used.

When I moved back to Seattle a couple of years ago, I decided to ditch my gas grill in favor of a charcoal cooker and I’m so glad I did. It’s not as convenient as gas, but the food tastes so much better, especially steaks and burgers, seafood and, well, just about everything cooked over the red hot coals. I’m partial to the Cowboy Hardwood Lump Charcoal.

The key to getting the fire going is to invest in a chimney, a gadget that looks like a big coffee can with holes (to draw air) and a handle. Dampen a paper towel with a little cooking spray, then light the fire. In 10 minutes, it should be good to go. At this point, I like to add some wood chips for some smoky flavor.

It’s terrific that you can find a forest’s worth of different flavors in many stores these days. My favorites are hickory for pork, mesquite for beef, and alder for salmon. There’s even wood chips made from old wine barrels. (I’ll drink to that!) How about you? Do you have a burning desire to defend the power of briquettes over lump? Or take up the great debate of gas grills vs. charcoal?

–Leslie Kelly